The Maxhosa Africa Paris Fashion Week collection for Spring/Summer 2027 was shown on Monday, 28 September, and creative director Laduma Ngxokolo used it to make a case for a more united, more confident Africa. Reuters described the show as the first full runway presentation by a South African label on the official Paris calendar. It took place in the residence of the South African ambassador to France.
A show built around the continent
IOL reported 54 looks in total, including one that referred to the recent redrawing of Africa’s scale on the UN’s official map. Some pieces carried multi-coloured knitted labels bearing the names of African countries. Rapper and singer Sjava wore one and performed the soundtrack. Kenyan artist Cyrus Kabiru supplied eyewear made from waste material for a number of the models.
The menswear ranged from formal to relaxed. Reuters pointed to a blue and red double-breasted suit in checkerboard knit covered in beaded symbols. At the casual end were baggy shorts and polo shirts in bright diamond patterns. FashionNetwork said the collection, titled “Izihlwele Zivumile”, relied on the geometric patterns and colours tied to Xhosa culture.
Made in South Africa
Ngxokolo told journalists he wanted the show to reflect South Africa’s diversity, beauty and business success. Maxhosa produces its clothes at two knitting factories it owns, in Johannesburg and East London, and the wool comes from the Eastern Cape. He said part of the aim is to lift the country’s textile industry and prove it can make luxury goods to a high standard.
His influences, he said, include Missoni, Gucci and Louis Vuitton alongside the beadwork traditions behind the brand’s patterns.
Representation, and its limits
Ngxokolo had hoped to bring other African designers to Paris with him but said he lacked the money. He also spoke about how long the road has been, saying he has spent 16 years trying to get a seat at the table and that Africa is still underrepresented.
The Paris calendar is set by France’s Haute Couture and Fashion Federation (FHCM), which has been widening its roster beyond the big French houses. Maxhosa has shown in Paris before, including a Fall 2026 presentation covered by WWD, but this was its biggest stage there yet.
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